Threads of Code: How Technology is Refashioning the Industry

In 2018, Balenciaga's digital runway preview stunned the fashion industry. Five years later, such tactics are expected. Technology has become essential, reshaping how brands create, market, and sell.

The most visible change is in production. 3D prototyping has drastically reduced sample approval times. Gerber Technology, which supplies design software to Balmain and Ferragamo, reported that their AccuMark 3D platform cut physical sampling by “up to 70%.” This saves mid-sized enterprises hundreds of thousands of euros annually. Digitisation of materials, like the downloadable fabric libraries at Alexander McQueen’s London atelier, accelerates sustainability by minimising waste. Artisans still contribute, but their tools now include keyboards.

Brands engage consumers differently now. Digital marketing has evolved from simple email blasts to a blend of data analytics and storytelling. Louis Vuitton's Spring 2023 campaign featured NFTs linked to physical items — bags that, when scanned, offered limited-edition digital art. The innovation lay in the backend: an AI-driven system analysed demographic engagement, informing future product development. LVMH disclosed that over €450 million was earmarked for AI research in 2022.

Retail experiences reflect this technological shift. At Dover Street Market in Paris, RFID-enabled displays detect when garments are removed from racks, prompting staff notifications to restock high-demand items. “Scarcity and surprise drive desire,” said a DSM representative to The Business of Fashion in 2023, noting an 18% sales increase after implementing these measures.

Not all brands embrace technology. Many heritage brands hesitate, fearing a disconnect between tradition and the digital frontier. Yet, the archival appeal of houses like Chanel may be enhanced by technology. Their relaunched Métiers d’Art app now incorporates detailed scans of hand-embroidered textiles from the Lemarié atelier, offering an unprecedented view into artisanal processes.

However, risks of over-digitisation persist. The backlash against virtual influencers like Lil Miquela — branded “liminal mannequins of capitalism” by Dazed in 2022 — suggests the human element remains vital to branding. Success relies on balance: knowing when to automate and when to maintain human touchpoints.

This shift impacts more than sales. As brands integrate AI and digital tools, the gap between fast fashion and high fashion narrows. Zara’s 2021 adoption of mixed-reality mirrors, emulating a Prada experiment from 2019, exemplifies this convergence. Whether this democratisation strengthens or dilutes luxury’s cultural impact remains an open question.

The archive of 2040 will differ significantly from that of 2020. Today’s fashion historians pore over sketches and fabric swatches; their successors will navigate terabytes of design files and marketing data. What will endure — whether on marble slabs or hard drives — is the tension between tradition and change, the artisan and the algorithm.